When the Ignitor ignition was upgraded I never had a chance to check the setting of the rev-limiter. It's relatively easy to reset (or disable) the rev-limiter, it's set at 5500 from the factory. I removed the distributor cap and followed the instructions below to set the limiter to 5000.
REV-LIMITER SETTING PROCEDURE
1. Remove distributor cap and rotor.
2. Turn the ignition key to the ‘ON’ position. Do not try starting the engine.
3. Turn the Rev-Limit dial clockwise until it stops. Turn the dial counterclockwise until it stops. A slow blinking of the LED indicates that the setting procedure has been initialised and that the Rev-Limit can be set.
4. Turning the dial clockwise sets the Rev-Limit. After turning the dial, pause and watch the LED for verification of the Rev-Limit setting. Long flashes indicate 1000 RPM’s and short flashes indicate 100 RPM’s. For example, 6 long flashes followed by 2 short flashes means the Rev-Limit is 6200 RPM’s. Continue turning the Rev-Limit dial until the desired Rev-Limit is reached.
NOTE: Leaving the Rev-Limit dial in the full counterclockwise position disables the Rev-Limiter.
5. Let the LED sequence thru at least three complete cycles. This verifies the correct setting and prepares the unit for permanent storage of the Rev-Limit.
6. Turn the ignition key off, this signifies to the Ignitor III that the Rev-Limit procedure is complete. Note: The Ignition key MUST be turned off or the engine will not start.
7. Your rev limit is now set and will not change until you go through this procedure again.
8. Re-install cap and rotor.
NOTE: Setting the rev limit may be done effectively and easily on a bench or table. Connect the module to a 9-volt battery as shown below. Then follow the setting procedure outlined above.
I ordered a couple of headlight motor drive gears from Zip Corvette. Fitting the new gear was simple, but a good tip is to mark the position of the old gear on the casing before you remove it, this makes it a lot easier to re-fit the headlight motor to the car (as the gear will engage with the pivot shaft when the headlight is in the closed position).
With the new gear fitted the headlight is now working 100% correctly, both headlights open and close in perfect sync.
I've had the new Mastercraft white sidewall tyres on the car for more than 6 months now. I purchased the tyres in 2 batches from different suppliers — the fronts first and then the rears. The production date on the tyres showed that the 'new' fronts were actually a year older than the rears (2020 production versus 2021).
When I washed off the blue protective coating I noticed that the white band on the fronts was already showing some discolouration (a slight yellowing on the outer edge of the white band) while the rears were perfectly white.
I wondered at the time if this was due to the age difference, and sure enough, after 6 months of use the rears have also developed the same discolouration. Do all white walls do this, or is is just the Mastercraft tyres? I'm inclined to think this is due to inferior materials or manufacturing, it seems I'm going to have to learn to live with it.
There were 3 different Delco Moraine caliper designs used from 65-82, each having different casting numbers. All 3 caliper designs are interchangeable, so many early cars may now have later calipers fitted. Original, 'First Design' 1965 calipers would have a casting number starting with #546.
First Design: 1965 – 1966 (and some very early '67s)
Front: Left #5465954; Right #5465952 – Rear: Left #5465902; Right #5465905
Second Design: 1967 – 1971 (and some very early '72s)
Front: Left #5452270; Right #5452273 – Rear: Left #5452281; Right #5452284
Third Design: 1972 – 1982 (the most common calipers)
Front: Left #5473795; Right #5473796 – Rear: Left #5473806; Right #5473807
Some months after fitting the new front tyres, I purchased new rear tyres. These were 215/75R15 Mastercraft WSW — slightly wider than the 205s on the front. I purchased the rear tyres from a different supplier, but they're still made in Mexico. When I washed off the blue protective coating the white walls were perfectly white. I'm now thinking that the issue with the white walls discolouring could be just the 'luck of the draw'.
When I shorted out the alternator, it wasn't the first time the engine loom had been cooked. With the engine out of the car, I removed the engine loom and found a lot of melted and cracked insulation. I purchased and installed a brand new Lectric loom from the USA, so engine loom is now as good as new.
Since writing this post, I've replaced the front tyres with another set of Mastercraft white walls. I found that the new tyres started to get a similar yellow stain on them as soon as the blue protective coating was washed off. Interestingly, the rear tyres (which are 10 years old) have perfectly white stripes, there's no discolouration at all.
Being so old, the rear tyres were made in the USA, whereas the old front tyres and the new ones I purchased are made in Mexico. My theory is that the quality of the white stripe on the Mexican tyres just isn't the same as the old US-made tyres. Has anyone else had a similar experience?